Jack-In-The-Pulpit

Arisaema triphyllum

Sometimes Jack, Sometimes Jill, Arisaema triphyllum, can live to 100 years old.

She, two stems and six leaves, makes red berries, which were used by Native Americans to make red dye and which attract Wild Turkeys and Wood Thrushes.
Jack-In-The-Pulpits are perennials and grow each season from a corm, kind of like an onion. She will have bountiful corms early in the season and will grow to be over 14” tall while he, one stem and three leaves, is shorter, will have a smaller corm but will collect up energy in the corm later in the season.  He could’ve been a she in the previous year.
Starch can be extracted from the corm, which was used by early American settlers to stiffen their clothes and by Europeans to make saloop, a drink popular in England in the 17th and 18th centuries before coffee and tea were imported.

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It’s spathe, the “pulpit”, is green, hood-like and curvaceous, punctuated with vertical stripes which can be white, brown or purple.

Its spadix, or “Jack”, is usually a pale, cream spike inside.

In her 1906 book, Studies of Plant Life in Canada, Catherine Parr Strickland, commented “When deprived of poisonous acrid juices that pervade them, all our known species may be rendered valuable both as food and medicine; but they should not be employed without care and experience.”

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Arisaema triphyllum is no exception; don’t try to eat the corms raw as its needle-shaped calcium oxalate crystals, called raphides, will sting painfully and clog up your kidneys. Corms can be edible but must be thoroughly dried, not boiled.

The plant, for all its warnings, is also an effective pain killer, duly recognized by Native Americans.

As with many woodland plants, do not take from the wild but buy from reputable sources. Gardens in the Woods in Framingham MA carries many woodland species for purchase. The Jack-In-The Pulpit does well in the shade garden, especially in a moist damp area. This beautiful plant specimen, planted with trillium and fern, makes for a very special display.

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Mayapple

I spotted a large stand of Mayapple alongside the road last year while on my way to one of my favorite farm stands.  This spring I have been excitedly waiting to see it emerge. The Mayapple, a North American herb (Podophyllum peltatum) with poisonous root stock and an edible though insipid egg-shaped yellowish fruit, is also called wild mandrake.

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Mayapple is an herbaceous, woodland perennial that spreads by rhizomes (horizontal, underground stems) effectively carpeting an area with stands of large, umbrella-like leaves. Vertical petioles (The stalk of a leaf, attaching the blade to the stem) rise one to two feet from the earth to connect to the center of what looks like a single, green parasol torn ragged by the wind. Despite this crude description, the foliage is actually quite attractive, especially viewed en masse, swaying in a gentle breeze.

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Unlike the single leaf of the sterile stems, flowering stems of Mayapple fork near the top to bear two leaves as well as a nodding, pale-cream, fragrant flower.  When pollinated the flower develops a pendant, pale-yellow fruit, roughly the size of an apricot.  This fruit is edible when ripe, though all parts of this plant contain varying amounts of a toxin named podophyllin.

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Mayapple is an excellent ground covering species, growing best in rich, moist garden soils with dappled sunlight but capable of colonizing dry sites over time. Mayapple can overrun and shade out many smaller plants and should be planted with this in consideration.

Mayapple is native to the eastern United States and Canada growing from Quebec south to Florida and west to Minnesota and Texas.

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Coltsfoot

I was having lunch recently with friends of mine and I noticed a clump of pretty, yellow flowers peeking up through leaf litter at the edge of their driveway.  Not being sure of its species name I took a picture of them in order to identify this early spring harbinger of color and to add it to my collection of roadside wildflowers.

The flowers, it turns out, were those of the Coltsfoot plant, Tussilago farfara a perennial which in some varieties can be toxic but which has medicinal qualities as well.  Bees, among others, are a known pollinator of this ancient plant.

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Coltsfoot bears flat, yellow-hued flower heads quite early in the spring and once the blooms wither the herb produces wide, hoof-shaped, jade colored leaves. Coltsfoot is similar in appearance to the common dandelion but with much longer stalks. It also has a very pleasant fragrance.

Coltsfoot has been used for centuries to treat respiratory conditions ranging from mild cough to the more serious asthma and bronchitis.  It suppresses coughs and relieves sore throats by coating the mucus membranes in the throat and lungs. When crushed, the leaves and flowers of the plant may also relieve minor skin conditions such as rashes, cuts and burns.

Because Coltsfoot is invasive it is not an appropriate plant for your herb garden but rather an herb that should only be gathered from the wild.

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Early to Rise

I plan to identify some of the spring flowering plants that emerge, along the roadside and in the wooded areas that I frequent and share my findings with you in my next few blogs this spring.

On a recent walk to the pond through a wooded area I was once again amazed with Natures demonstration of adaptability.  Take, for example, the Skunk Cabbage, which manages to protrude its flowers through icy soil in the early spring as efficiently as an excavator smashes through rock and frozen soil.

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The Skunk Cabbage, Symplocarpus foetidus, (pronounced;  sim-plo-kar-pus  foy-ti-dus) a low growing, foul smelling plant that prefers soft wetlands, is noted for its ability to melt its way through frozen ground and, by way of its odor, color and shape, attract carrion-feeding insects, including bees, to fuel pollination.

The plant produces flowers in late winter-early spring and leafs out in March.  It grows downward, not upward and its contractile roots cause it to grow deeper into the earth making it practically impossible to dig up older plants.  The flowers display an inflorescence and are initially green and dark purple.  Its shape is alluring, curved and tapered to a point at its apex.  The foliage emerges in a scroll form and continues to open into a loose looking head of lettuce, sometimes reaching up to 3 feet in height.

For more information go to this link.
http://natureinstitute.org/pub/ic/ic4/skunkcabbage.htm

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Helleborus

The genus Helleborus pronounced (hel-eh-bor’ us) consists of approximately 20 species. The common names include Hellebore, Lenten Rose or Christmas Rose. The two different types of Hellebores in this group consist of a Caulescent species and Acaulescent species. The caulescent species has leaves on its flowering stems whereas the acaulescent species is considered stemless. It has basal leaves and does not have true leaves on its flower stalk.

I have heard that Hellebores are called the aristocrats of the woodland garden. Native to Europe and western Asia the Hellebore is an early harbinger of spring and is met with much joy as its beautiful flowers can often be seen poking through snow-covered gardens. Depending on the climate and the severity of the winter, blooms on these evergreen perennials appear as early as December or as late as April.

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Hellebores do well in partial shade and like an evenly moist and rich neutral soil. Hellebores are drought tolerant once established; although they are slow to spread they are steady and will eventually create a beautiful ground cover. Hellebores are considered deer and vole resistant however, they are also considered somewhat toxic if ingested.

Hellebores are easily maintained and only require a few steps to keep them looking their best. In early spring apply a balanced or slow-release fertilizer or side-dress with compost when new growth appears. Remove any yellow or dead leaves to maintain the plant’s beauty. Hellebores prefer evenly moist soil, so water well if by mid-spring it has been unseasonably dry. Allow to dry slightly between watering’s, but never allow to dry out completely. In late-spring watch for slug or snail damage and control as necessary and remove old flower stems when they decline, cutting back to the basal foliage. A light application of lime or wood ash in the fall will help keep the soil to a neutral pH (7). Do not cut back in winter but wait until spring to lightly clip the plant. Hellebores are long lived and are great companions to many other shade loving plants.

Consider adding Hellebores to your garden and expand your garden experience with a colorful array of early blooms.

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Sweet Peas

Spring is here. It is time to prepare the soil and start some of our early crops.

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This week’s blog is short and sweet.  It is literally short because the information to grow Sweet Peas Lathyrus odoratus is at the end of the link at the end of this blog.  Sweet because that is what sweet peas are both in fragrance and ascetically.  If you have never grown sweet peas you should consider doing so this year.  They are beautiful old fashion fragrant flowers.  They are easy to grow and they make great bouquets.  If you decide to try growing sweet peas let us know how you do we would love to hear about it.

Sweet spring!

http://blog.planetnatural.com/growing-sweet-peas/

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Lowely, Lovely, Ants

It is the first day of Spring 2013.  A snow storm has just dropped 10 inches or more of fresh snow on the landscape and an additional few inches are predicted for tomorrow.  I am working late tonight and I decided to download a pod cast of one of my favorite radio programs.  When I heard Magna Chakrabarti of Radio Boston on NPR say…“A ramble through Nature” I had to listen.

Magna was interviewing Aaron Ellison, a research fellow at Harvard and co-author of “A Field Guide to the Ants of New England”.  As they walked together around Walden Pond, Mr. Ellison shared the following facts;

It turns out that the soil that we have in New England was made by ants; and not by earthworms, as many might think, because the glaciers wiped out the earthworms.  The earthworms we have today in New England have been imported, in various ways.  The soil that has been created over the last ten thousand to fifteen thousand years, at a rate of 1” for every two hundred years, is due to ants.

Ants are like tiny excavators.  Their nests go down 3 to 5 feet and the material excavated by these tiny little creatures is brought to the surface, creating soil.

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There are a 120 species of ants in New England, the largest being the Eastern Carpenter ant.  All worker ants are female and there are between ten thousand to fifty thousand worker ants to a colony.

Ants eat everything!  If it weren’t for ants we would be in big trouble.  Ants are one of the most important recycler’s we have on this planet.  They make soil, recycle debris, make nutrients for the soil and clean our planet at the same time.

At the end of the walk Magna asked Mr. Ellison what he hoped to accomplish with his book on ants.

He replied that he hoped people would learn to appreciate another creature that shares [and which gives so generously] to our planet.   After all, he concludes, “Ants could get along fine without humans, but humans cannot get along without ants”.

To hear the whole broadcast go to this link:   http://radioboston.wbur.org/2013/03/20/ants

For more information on ants you can also go to this link:  http://animals.nationalgeographic.com/animals/bugs/ant/

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Integrated Pest Management (IPM)

“When we kill off the natural enemies of a pest, we inherit their work.” -C.B Huffaker

I was first introduced to IPM about 25 years ago when I attended a Master Gardener’s Program in Waltham MA. The premise in IPM is the employment of observation and non-toxic, natural applications of products and practices in order to mitigate disease and harm to beneficial insects, birds and animals.

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Why not just spray and be done with it, you may ask? Here are two reasons why spraying is not the answer:

1. Chemical spray is non-discriminating and will kill everything in its path, pests and beneficial insects. Because of the tendency for nature’s pests to recover and return,in the absence of beneficial insects to stop them, the sprays are limited and have to be used repeatedly.

2. Chemical spray has a way of moving up the food chain; not only were birds affected with DDT years ago, but humans are now showing signs of contamination from chemicals being applied to food products.

A successful implementation of the IPM Process will call on one’s powers of observation and a curiosity for learning. It will also lead one in a direction that will be rewarding and that will make a difference to the equation and balance of nature and how we react to the challenges we face in the garden.

One of the first steps in IPM is to discover the wonderful world of beneficial insects. and the second step is getting to know your garden pests.

I have included a link to a site that identifies beneficial insects.

http://www.planetnatural.com/site/using-beneficial-insects.html

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Vertical Gardening

I have been intrigued by vertical gardening of late. It seems that there is a global interest in vertical gardens whether they be large vertical gardens on buildings or DIY vertical gardens, herb or veggie plots, for example, making use of small areas, or small framed hangings consisting of succulent plants. Vertical gardening seems to be a new trend in gardening, or is it?

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I learned from further research that vertical gardening was introduced in 1938 by a professor White from the University of Illinois Urbana-Champaign. Professor White patented the first known Vertical Garden, or “Vegetation-Bearing Architectonic Structure and System”, as a treatise on modern garden design. Fast forward fifty years and meet a botanist by the name of Patrick Blanc, who worked at the French National Centre for Scientific Research. Although we know that Patrick Blanc did not invent the Vertical Garden he is, however, responsible for modernizing and popularizing the garden type.

Mr. Blanc’s knowledge of plant material and his observation of examples in the wild, combined with his amazing talent for organizing and display,led him to create the most beautiful pieces of living art the world had ever seen.
Not only is vertical gardening beautiful but forward thinkers are also planning and designing buildings that will be used as “sky farms”. A proposed building design for the city of Las Vegas would create the world’s first 30-story vertical farm that would have the potential to feed 72,000 people per year.

I guess in this case you could really say that “The Sky’s the Limit”. For some spectacular photos of some of the world’s most interesting and beautiful examples of Vertical Gardening follow these links and do enjoy!

http://www.verticalgardenpatrickblanc.com/

http://www.environmentalgraffiti.com/ecology/15-living-walls-vertical-gardens-sky-farms/1202?image=0

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Managing Deer in the Landscape

Deer can wreak havoc on a landscape and no plant is deer proof.  Deer will eat almost anything in the spring as tender new growth emerges from plants.  Deer prefer soft lush vegetation, they especially like flower buds. The common characteristics plants have that are deer resistant include thorns, prickly leaves or stems, strong scents and pungent tastes, are poisonous, produce thick latex-like sap or have hairy leaves.  One of the easiest ways to deter deer from damaging your landscape is to plant an assortment of different plant material.  Under-planting with strong smelling perennials or herbs is one way of keeping the deer away from a more susceptible plant.

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Ornamental grasses are highly resistant to deer grazing and including them in your landscape not only provides a nice contrast to trees, shrubs and perennials but also offers great texture and low maintenance.  Deer rarely browse on fern foliage, making it an excellent addition to the landscape as well.  Also, when it comes to bulbs deer seldom damage daffodils, summer snowflakes, scillas or ornamental onions.

Keep in mind when planting your landscape to plant the most susceptible materials closer to the house with the less susceptible further away and the deer resistant materials on the outer edges.  Other measures can be taken to deter deer damage be it using natural remedies, for example,  bars of heavily scented soap hung from branches or a purchase of coyote urine from your local retailer, all practices which when combined with wise planting schemes can help mitigate deer damage to the landscape.

The following is a list of some plant materials that are the least likely to be damaged by deer.

TREES

  • Betula nigra-River Birch
  • Pinus-Pine
  • Crataegus-Hawthorn 
  • Cryptomeria japonica-Japanese Cedar 
  • Ginkgo biloba-Ginkgo 
  • Gleditsia triacanthos-Honey Locust 

SHRUBS 

  • Berberis julianae-Wintergreen Barberry
  • Buxus microphylla-Japanese Boxwood 
  • Cephalotaxus harringtonia-Plum Yew 
  • Clethera alnifolia-Summersweet

PERENNIALS 

  • Asclepias tuberosa-Butterflyweed
  • Baptisia-False Indigo
  • Achillea-Yarrow 
  • Aquilegia-Columbine 
  • Artemisia-Powis Castle 
  • Heuchera-Coral Bells
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